“I love the mysterious and alluring sparkle of black diamonds. Because of their hard and opaque nature, they have a unique metallic, mirrored surface unlike any other gem. When clustered together they are dynamic, captivating, and a perfect metaphor for the Wings Collection.

The matte finished sterling silver, black rhodium detail, and oxidised chain add depth and character to the necklace.”

- Karlin

design

The necklace’s wing focal point has contrasting feather types - the black diamonds represent the ‘covert’ feathers and the satin silver represents the ‘primary’ feathers. Rhodium is used to add definition to the individual feather contours.

The chain is oxidised and matte finished to give depth, contrast and visual texture, and to match the silver and black aesthetic of the wing.

Metalwork

The ‘lost wax’ technique was used to cast the 20mm silver wing. The original wax carving was cast into a silver, and hand finished to create a ‘master’. This master was used to create a mould from which wax versions are made, and the waxes are cast into sterling silver (millesimal fineness of 925). Each casting is then rough filed, smooth filed and emeried. The black diamonds are then set (see below) before the top feathers around the settings are given a lustrous polish and the feathers below are satin finished with a matting wheel.

The wing is sent to a specialist metal plating company in Hatton Garden, London, who apply rhodium plating between the individual feathers.

A 16 inch sterling silver chain and catch is oxidised and finished before being attached to the black diamond set wing with laser welded sterling silver jump rings.

Black diamonds

The necklace features fourteen pavé set round brilliant cut carbonado black diamonds graduating from 1.4mm to 1mm in diameter. The stones are sourced from a trusted Hatton Garden based gem dealer, and each is examined for quality and consistency before being set under a microscope.

The pavé (pronounced “pa-vay”) technique is used to seat the diamonds. It involves drilling a precise seat for each diamond with a ball burr to allow the stone to nestle in just below the metal surface. A sharp graver tool is then used to cut tiny slivers of metal which curl over the diamond to form miniature claws. The claws are then rounded and flattened into spheres with a beading tool, leaving a bright polished surfaced on each sphere which enhances and complements the sparkle of the diamonds.

Finishing touches

The completed necklace is sent to the Edinburgh Assay Office for Hallmarking before returning to Shetland to be given a final finish and polish.

The necklace is presented in a high quality satin textured and chamois lined necklace box accompanied by a postcard featuring the design story of the Wings Collection.

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